Thursday, July 18, 2024

Before the railroads, there were canals

England's industrial innovations in the 1700s and early 1800s wouldn't have changed the world (and enriched capitalist entrepreneurs much like the tech moguls of today) if moving product had continued to depend on horses and wagons. And so, the country developed a network of small canals. In the mid-1800s, these water ways were rendered obsolete by railways, but many remain intact and boaters navigate them on what are called narrowboats, barely 7 feet wide and as much as 60 feet long.

The Erudite Partner and I have just enjoyed two weeks on the Llangollen, Trent and Mersey, and Bridgewater Canals, accompanying her brother who is moving such a boat north for its owner. Some pictures:

Would that more days were this bright and clear! Fog and wind in San Francisco is good preparation for an English summer. But when the sun breaks through, a glimpse of "England's green and pleasant land."

Along the shore, small business eke out a living from the traffic.

 
Passing through larger towns, the canal can become somewhat crowded.
 
Then back to quiet and solitude.
 
The canals made transport possible by using locks to raise and lower boats over the rises in the terrain.
 
Boaters operate the paddles at each lock, opening and closing off the water, sometimes with advice from local volunteers. These two women were learning the drill. Erudite Partner and I cranked through dozens of locks while Captain Josh drove.

This is what it looks like from the boat while passing inside a lock.

 
Where a canal encountered substantial rises, the builders dug tunnels. Boaters have to approach with caution; the tunnels are only barely wider and higher than a single boat. On long tunnels entry is timed -- first north bound gets 20 minutes, then the south bound boats take their short turn. Here's what a tunnel entrance looks like:

That's a short one. Sometimes there are curves and some are as long as a mile. Here's what this one looks like while inside.
 
A towpath runs along the canal and serves walkers and runners well, though it is largely uncrowded.
 
Let me close with a pic of E.P. taking the helm.
 
The narrowboat made for an easy and enjoyable adventure. We disembarked near Manchester, leaving Josh to finish his journey with a new crew. We are now on to the Lake Country. More when I have connection and thoughts.

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